It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We conduct a statistical analysis of runs from a nearshore Boussinesq-type model to demonstrate that under certain wave conditions, which a casual observer would perceive as calm, the likelihood of large run-up events is uncharacteristically high. The data computed by the Boussinesq-type model show that sea states with lower overall wave steepness favor higher run-up. Under these wave conditions, more of the available wave energy reaches the shore, since less wave breaking occurs, which can create a false sense of security for beach-goers.

Kalisch, H., Lagona, F., Roeber, V. (2023). Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger. NATURAL HAZARDS [10.1007/s11069-023-06319-w].

Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger

Lagona, Francesco;
2023-01-01

Abstract

It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We conduct a statistical analysis of runs from a nearshore Boussinesq-type model to demonstrate that under certain wave conditions, which a casual observer would perceive as calm, the likelihood of large run-up events is uncharacteristically high. The data computed by the Boussinesq-type model show that sea states with lower overall wave steepness favor higher run-up. Under these wave conditions, more of the available wave energy reaches the shore, since less wave breaking occurs, which can create a false sense of security for beach-goers.
2023
Kalisch, H., Lagona, F., Roeber, V. (2023). Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger. NATURAL HAZARDS [10.1007/s11069-023-06319-w].
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/11590/460991
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